posted
I was thinking that since I was an auto repair technician for 10 years and in auto svc mgmt for a couple of years maybe I can help some of you who may have questions regarding auto service.
Sometimes you go to the dealer and they want to sell you all these flushes and services that may not be necessary but will get them a nice spiff in the paycheck.
Feel free to ask away and I will be glad to help.
Posts: 413 | From nj | Registered: Nov 2005
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just don
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 1129
posted
Okay improver,(cool name)
I have a 90 Geo Tracker with an aluminum block engine. This car has been a real gem for me,,easy to get in and out,,,main draw back darn cold in winter,wind whistles thru it!!
has run a long ways with very little work. BIGGEST problem ever was a brain box replacement,,,and then the front wheel bearings worked loose and ruined the hubs!!
Anyway it "suddenly" developed a gushing antifreeze leak out of the block (AND NO it didnt freeze)down on the carb side where you cant see it.
I am toying with pulling the motor myself since cant talk anyone else into it. Trying to have the block 'welded' and slip it back in.
problem is MY hands are too big to 'fit' into those tight spaces and arthritis doesnt let ME do what I used to do!!
THIS motor is light, I am sure,its real small, BUT do you have to do anything special to disconnect the puter part???
Never worked on a puter car before. I have the tools, can clean out space in a BIG garage to work on it in foot deep snow,etc and HAVE done 'some' work on cars before,not a rookie.
HAVE cherry picker and metric wrenches and sockets,,,any OTHER tools necessary??? Sure wish I had a hoist,,,would make it MUCH easier!!
Other dumb thing is a local garage took a power washer to it to SEE where the leak is and ruined the MAP sensor. It USED to run and run well,,,now cant get it started!!
Is this doable?? How long of job would YOU think this would be?? NOT wanting to put more money IN the car than its worth and THATS not much.
Certified welder friend says he 'thinks' he can weld it shut for me IF He can see it well and get it clean,,,was going to pressure check it before reintalling it to be 'sure'. He says he can weld most anything,,,except the crack of dawn!!!
So IF I pull it and reinstall in myself and HE welds it shut,,,cost is for new sensors or whatever else is goofed up with water damage
This is a 4X4 car so would you pull JUST the engine alone,,or take motor and tranny etc in ONE piece???
Would I put this UP on blocks first?? SO I can climb,slide underneath?? OR leave it on floor so I can reach over the hood area??? OR a combo of BOTH??? THANKS for ANY advice!!being --just don--
-------------------- just don Posts: 4548 | From Middle of midwest | Registered: May 2001
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posted
Hi Don, It has been a while since I've seen under the hood of an older Tracker. So are they sure the block itself was cracked? I wonder if maybe it could be the head gasket or a freeze plug.
If you are going to pull the engine I would start by diconnecting the battery and all electrical connections. Take some tape and a marker and as you unhook each connector lable them at each end that is unhooked. You can just number them as you go, like both ends of the fist connection unplugged would get a #1 and next would get #2 etc. Do the same with small hoses and vac lines.
Raise the front of the vehicle to gain access to everything you need to disconnect underneeth. I would leave the trans and just unbolt the engine bellhousing bolts, motor mounts, starter etc.
Once all the under work is one lower the vehilce so you wont have to get the engine even higher to clear.
This is still a big job even though its a small motor.
Sometimes welding an aluminum block works and sometimes it doesn't. You might be able to get a junkyard motor cheap. Just a thought.
If you decide to take this on you can ask me more as you go and I will try and help as much as I can.
Good luck, Rich
Posts: 413 | From nj | Registered: Nov 2005
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posted
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Posts: 413 | From nj | Registered: Nov 2005
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kam
Honored Contributor (10K+ posts)
Member # 3410
posted
A friend recently donated a NIssan Pathfinder to me. It is a 1993 and I keep watching the speedometer for when it turns 200,000 miles...any day now.
Since I have never had a car with this much mileage on it, I am wondering just how much more use I might get out of this car?
I am just beginning to drive again and when I do it is for only about 10 minutes at a time.
But, it is wonderful to be in a warm car or a cool car in the summer and be out of the weather.
Much better for my health. Good for the spirit to as I like the independence it gives me.
Question #2
It has 4 wheel drive but my friend said she never used it when she owned it.
I recently almost got stuck in mud. AT one point, I thought now might be a good time to learn how to use the 4 wheel drive.
But, I would think there is more to it than just putting it in 4 wheel drive if it has not been used in years.
Posts: 15927 | From Became too sick to work or do household chores in 2001. | Registered: Dec 2002
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posted
Hi Kam, Glad to hear you are back behind the wheel. Nissans and imports in general if taken care of can run a very long time. I just sold a 95 Toyota with 280000 on it and its still going. The key is routine maintenance. Keep changing the oil when its due and don't ignore problems as they come up and it could last you years longer.
As far as the 4x4, it's a good idea to engage it every once in a while and just drive slow for a short distance to get everything moving. There are parts that move only when 4x4 is being used and this is the only time they get lubricated properly. Usually there are instructions on the visor or in the owners manual on how to use it.
Usually you put the transmission in neutral and then engage 4h or 4l. You should definately become familiar with the process in case you ever need to use it.
When you try it out listen for ugly noises or vibrations. You will have some change of sound and feel with use of 4x4 but you will probably know if there is a major problem. Chances are it is fine.
Oh and the next time you take it in for service (oil change) make sure they check all the fluid levels including front differential and transfer case as these are major 4x4 components. A good shop checks all fluids during an oil change but its a good idea to request it ahead of time.
Good luck, Rich
Posts: 413 | From nj | Registered: Nov 2005
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just don
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 1129
posted
Ok Improver, here is another of my broken fleet.
I have a 92 Ford F-250 4X4 with a 460 in it. Transmission has taken a dump for the second time in 85K miles.
Last shop that did it says ,"Yes, they probably didnt flush the trans oil cooler,!!"(They took tranny out and sent it to be rebuilt and then reinstalled it.
It is that famous E4OD and I am told its the ONLY truck it will fit being a 460. Then Others have said the diesels are the same big block as the 460 gas. Who's right??
I see on the net there is a place in Phoenix that sells rebuilt ones for $695 PLUS $550 core and $300 shipping. In addition I would have to pay here for install since its too heavy for ME to manhandle in there.
NO hoist and or tranny jack.
This place in Phoenix has a heavy duty trans too for like about$1800 plus 550 core and 300 shipping. Whats the difference between those,,,1100 bucks of heavy?? What do they put into them for THAT much money ie value??
My old beat up truck (has salvage title to BOOT)isnt worth going to a local tranny shop,,think last one quoted me like 3K to rebuild what I have!!
I ALSO see kits on the web to rebuild one,quite cheaper,,,what kind of mechanic could take one of those and rebuild MY tranny for me,,,worth a shot??
How much does it cost to ship a trans from Phoenix to Nebraska or I saw others from Florida too??? Funny part was it was ship ONLY,,,cannot 'pickup' yourself!! Are these national tranny places reputable OR 'RIP OFF ARTISTS'???
My truck is worth ZERO without a tranny, BUT not worth fixing this way. I tried looking for a used tranny,,,they HAVE to be out there,,,but cant seem to find one,,and unable to KNOW how good they really are!!(got BURNED on a used motor once!)
I realize this got long again,,,sorry,,any advice or sources of getting it going??being--just don--
-------------------- just don Posts: 4548 | From Middle of midwest | Registered: May 2001
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posted
Hi Don, I have seen many problems from not flushing the cooler. How long ago was the trans last redone? They should warranty it for a while.
The diesel and gas versions are different I know at least the gearing is different since diesels have a narrow power range in mostly low rpm.
One of the best reman trans dealers is Jasper. I looked it up and it would cost you 2400 from them.
I wouldn't let just anyone rebuild it or buy a rebuild from just anyone. Transmissions are very complicated. You should see how many parts are inside one. Leave it to a guy who specializes in trans repair. Stay away from the small time interenet trans guys unless you can dig up some feedback.
Keep an eye out on ebay.
The heavy duty rebuilds usually just use heavier cluthches, and other internal parts. (There are clutches in automatics too...many of them).
Good luck, Rich
Posts: 413 | From nj | Registered: Nov 2005
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MADDOG
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 18
posted
Hey Don ,were is that Dodge diesel truck??
MADDOG
Posts: 3996 | From Ohio | Registered: Oct 2000
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posted
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Posts: 413 | From nj | Registered: Nov 2005
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just don
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 1129
posted
Improver,
could YOU "PLEASE" journey over to off topic page and 'help' Kam and Geneal on there electric window issues?? Thanks for ALL you do here!!!!a grateful--just don--
-------------------- just don Posts: 4548 | From Middle of midwest | Registered: May 2001
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just don
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 1129
posted
Improver,
Here is a question I am having right now,,,I have 90% of the engine from the Tracker ready for removal RIGHT NOW>
Surprisingly the exhaust bolts finger turned out after a slight wrench job,,,whoda thunk!!
BUT the fueo(gas) line is another whole issue. It is down right side close to motor mount and fender,,it is REAL tight and STUCK. It takes 2 17 metric,one on each end. The NUT is like a flare fitting nut onto steel line and then rubber hose that goes up to motor.
The line before this nut is steel tubing. I was thinking of cutting the steel line carefully and installing rubber hose on both ends and hose clamping it back,,,BUT its in a very hard place to get to(easier to SEE it than get both hands and ANY tools in there!!)
I am afraid IF I take a saber saw in there it will set off the gas,,,AND the filings of sawing it would get into fuel system OR filters!!
Dont think I can get a tubing cutter around and around to cut it!! other tubes in the road.
I already tried PB Blaster to NO avail,,,and wrenching hard it trys to strip over. was thinking of 2- 17 metric line wrenches so ALL 6 sides supported and then longer cheater handles,'tubing' or 'pipe'!!
never had anything 'seized' this hard before!!It wants to 'kink' when I really get on it!!Its at about a 45 degree angle coming UP so fenders and motor gets in the road real quick!!HEAT on a gas line fitting seems like a not good idea!!!
THANKS for any suggestions!!for--just don--
-------------------- just don Posts: 4548 | From Middle of midwest | Registered: May 2001
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Peacesoul
Unregistered
posted
Cool thread......so cool of you to help out. Any lawyers in the house? ;-)
Ok my car question. It's not really a mechanical question but an audio question. My cd player just stopped playing on my 2004 Mazda 6. I tried to eject the cd's, in fact I hit every button but the cd player just doesn't want to play. It played fine and when I went to switch the cd (it holds 5 cd's) it just stopped. Should I take it to the dealer to have it fixed or some audio place? Or is there something I can do on my own to fix it?
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posted
Hi Don, Well let me start by saying you are not your everyday do it your selfer, I am impressed with your know how.
Ok, I know how difficult those hard to reach fuel line fittings can be. I would most definately use line wrenches. You may need to use a line wrench on one side and a line crows foot on the other. A crows foot is just like the end of an open end wrench (the part that actually grabs the nut) but it stops there and has a square hole for a ratchet or extension.
The nice part about this setup is you may be able to use a long enough extension to get your ratchet to a place where you can crank on it. You won't be able to go far in travel but once it's loose you can do the rest with a wrench or by hand.
Good luck and keep me posted, Rich
Posts: 413 | From nj | Registered: Nov 2005
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posted
Hi Peacesoul, Sorry your cd player is acting up. Unfortunately there isn't a whole lot you can do yourself since it's a sealed unit. I would only take it to the dealer and not an audio place if it is a factory unit. Most newer vehicles have radios that are integrated with the vehicles computer system and the dealer knows what they can and can't do.
Sory I can't be of more help with this issue. Good luck, Rich
Posts: 413 | From nj | Registered: Nov 2005
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kam
Honored Contributor (10K+ posts)
Member # 3410
posted
Thanks Rich. I had forgotten all about this thread.
Posts: 15927 | From Became too sick to work or do household chores in 2001. | Registered: Dec 2002
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Peacesoul
Unregistered
posted
Rich, no you were a help. Good to know I should take it to the dealer. Thanks, when my transmission makes noise, I'm coming back for you though ;-)
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