trueblue
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 7348
posted
Ummm... Help!
I'm cat/bird sitting for the neighbors. They neglected to mention they had treated the cat (an indoor cat) for fleas before they left. (I wondered why she smelled like cloves.) I have no way to get in touch with them.
I am covered in flea bites. I am not happy. (My last exposure was from a massive amount of flea bites; then I crashed and burned.)
The house is getting more and more infested and I have 40-50 bites (received in the last few days). I went in there, today, wearing sweats with elastic around the ankles and socks so nothing could get in.
When I came out and fleas were all over me. I could see them jumping. I whipped off my shoes, socks and sweats and dipped my legs in the pool. I shook out my clothes and left the shoes outside.
I have caught 3 fleas in my house in the last couple of hours. I am having an allergic reaction to the bites.
I have to go back and feed them tomorrow. I have no idea what to do for the cat. I'm pretty sure I can't do anything about the house.
How do I keep them from multiplying in my house; if it isn't already too late?
How do I protect myself from more bites?
Is there anything short of an antihistamine that will reduce the allergic reaction? (eg, rashes)
Can I help Tess (the cat) in any way?
Any ideas, advice and/or something to quell my panic would be greatly appreciated.
trueblue
-------------------- more light, more love more truth and more innovation Posts: 3783 | From somewhere other than here | Registered: May 2005
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D Bergy
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 9984
posted
I do not know how to get rid of a house full of fleas. But I do know that you can get a type of tapeworm by getting one in your mouth and swallowing it. I got these worms from our pets which had fleas for a short time. We did not have nearly the problem you are describing.
When I used MMS they came out. So you may want to watch for rice like things in your stool for awhile.
I would call an exterminator for advice.
D Bergy
Posts: 2919 | From Minnesota | Registered: Aug 2006
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lymednva
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 9098
posted
I have friends who have dogs and they used to set off bombs to kill fleas in the summer in their house.
I wouldn't want to do it in my own home, due to the release of toxins, and not sure it's a good idea to do in someone else's house either.
But then they didn't task you if you wanted fleas!
-------------------- Lymednva Posts: 2407 | From over the river and through the woods | Registered: Apr 2006
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posted
We used diatomaceous earth for our last flea infestation.
Spread liberally around the house and you can even rub it on yourself or the pets.
It's non-toxic and doesn't stain.
On carpeting, sprinkle like a deodorizer and brush into the pile. You can do the same thing for upholstered furniture.
Dust around baseboards, under furniture, etc. Leave in place for a few days or up to a week, depending on the size of the infestation.
It works as a mechanical insecticide, rather than a toxin.
It makes small scratches in the outer coating of the insects and their eggs, causing them to dehydrate and die.
Granted, it does leave a bit of a mess (have to dust and vacuum everything afterwards) but it really does help.
-------------------- If you don't know where you are going, any road will take you there. - Lewis Carroll Posts: 356 | From Body-PA, Mind-elsewhere | Registered: Dec 2007
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charlie
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 25
posted
Blue...I bet they have an exterminator they use. Probably a name on a refrig magnet or something...that's the way it usually is around here, similar climate,no ground freezing so fleas don't die during winter.
If you can figure out who they use call them...that's what will happen when they get home anyway.
For your own place I'd go to Lowes and buy the bombs and set them off then leave for most of a day then air the place out. when you've got biting insects crawling on you it's no time to worry about toxins.
now I'm sympathy itching....
Charlie
Posts: 2804 | From Texas | Registered: Oct 2000
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luvs2ride
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 8090
posted
If I were you, I would hire another pet sitter and then get reimbursed from the homeowner.
Diatenaceous Earth is a good product but be careful rubbing it on yourself or your pets. The finely crushed seashells can be inhaled and will cut your lungs.
D.E. works by cutting the shell of the insect.
Luvs
-------------------- When the Power of Love overcomes the Love of Power, there will be Peace. Posts: 3038 | From america | Registered: Oct 2005
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trueblue
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 7348
posted
Thanks all of you!
D Bergy ~ Yikes!
Lymed ~ Yeah, you're right. I may have to bomb in here. I'm not sure.
Their house would be too difficult to bomb and I'd need to find a place for the bird and poor flea-ridden cat while doing so. She hasn't got outside shots so I can't take her out.
Curiouser ~ I'll look into diatomaceous earth. I read, some, on wikipedia last night and seems to have some cautions. Oh, boy, I am so not up for this.
Charlie ~ Sorry to spread the itching around. I have the creepy crawlies just thinking about it. Dammit, I put the bill from the exterminator in the house the other day (found it in stuck the door). Crap, that means going in to get it.
I'll hit a store this morning and get something for my place. I feel the same way, I'd rather have toxins. Seems to me it's far less dangerous.
Luvs ~ I'll read more on the diatomaceous earth. I did see the precautions.
It seems my other choices, naturally, are Borax and salt. As far as I can tell apple cider vinegar, I believe can be given to cats and myself. Apparently, fleas don't care for vinegar. At least I have that in the house.
The only other thing I have on hand is tea tree oil which may be somewhat effective. I'm off to the stores when they open. I'll be without a computer for part of today.
Thanks one and all. blue and bitten
-------------------- more light, more love more truth and more innovation Posts: 3783 | From somewhere other than here | Registered: May 2005
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merrygirl
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 12041
posted
So sorry to hear this. YUCK>
Feline advantage would be good for the cat. Kills fleas on cat in 24 hours. There is also a pill called Capstar that kills fleas on the cat in 30 minutes. I have seen this with my own eyes. You might be able to get frontline or Advantage at Petco. The pill would come from a vet.
If it were me, I would treat the cat with Frontline or advantag and capstar. I was going to say Bomb the house, but that stuff is toxic to fish and birds especially and the animals cant stay in the house that day I believe..
Posts: 3905 | From USA | Registered: May 2007
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merrygirl
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 12041
posted
I wanted to mention if you have pets you should treat them too....
And I would bomb my house. But how long do you have to watch them for? I would bomb your house at the end or it will be a waste.
Melissa
Posts: 3905 | From USA | Registered: May 2007
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trueblue
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 7348
posted
quote:Originally posted by merrygirl: I wanted to mention if you have pets you should treat them too....
And I would bomb my house. But how long do you have to watch them for? I would bomb your house at the end or it will be a waste.
Melissa
Thanks Melissa, I have no pets and am watching these until the 19th. hmmm... 5 days... I'm going to go in later (after I get some repellent for me and leave them food to last most of that time. I should be able to get away with only going over once more after that.
Oops, just saw your first post. I can't treat the cat she was treat last week and can only be done once a month.
I got in touch with the owners this morning and was told to go in and get the 20 Mule team Borax from their laundry room and treat my carpet. Additionally to fidn the natural stuff they bought for their house and give it a dusting.
*sigh*
I didn't sign up for this.
-------------------- more light, more love more truth and more innovation Posts: 3783 | From somewhere other than here | Registered: May 2005
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merrygirl
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 12041
posted
I feel terrible for you! This wasnt nice of them at all.
Do you know what the cat was treated with?
The pill would still be ok. A topical might too depending on what they used.
Shouldnt be your responsibility to do this anyway.
This is bringing back bad memories of my Grandmothers house when I was a kid. It was a horse farm and we had 6 cats and I believe this was before all the preventatives we have now.
The flease would just jump on your ankles as we walked across teh room. Nasty!
We had a dog who used to be covered in ticks the size of your thumb. We used to have a tick jar in the bathroom!
Good Luck Melissa
Posts: 3905 | From USA | Registered: May 2007
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trueblue
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 7348
posted
I'm going to douse my legs in Tea Tree Oil and hand cream and go over and find the stuff they treated poor Tess with. It was topical.
They told me something, supposedly, natural from Walmart. I'll have to read it and see what it says. (I just know the cat smelled kind of like cloves the other day.)
The cat is a ragdoll, I think, my guess is 8 or so years old. She's a really nice and very large cat.
I'm sorry, I know about the bad memories. This is like a nightmarish flashback for me. I've gone through a similar thing when I was a about 20 with a friend and her new kitten. We sat on kitchen chairs with our pants rolled up and let fleas jump on us and squished them. (A less than stellar idea.)
And then again, when renting a room, 15 years ago, in a house full of mice with fleas. Those incidents are what is fueling my panic; I know that. As I think I might have contracted Bart the first time and a host of lovely co's the second... I was diagnosed less than 6 months after that second exposure.
Ok, I'm going in. I might as well, get the stuff and see what can be done. *takes a deep breath*
-------------------- more light, more love more truth and more innovation Posts: 3783 | From somewhere other than here | Registered: May 2005
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merrygirl
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 12041
posted
Anything for fleas bought at walmart is crap for fleas.
Find the active ingredient and I can tell you what you can use.
May the force be with you
Melissa
Posts: 3905 | From USA | Registered: May 2007
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just don
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 1129
posted
TBF, Sorry for the NEED. I would spray the inside outside and maybe even the cat with Tempo. Somebody did that here and it knocked them out and gone!!
It is derived from geraniums and doesnt have ANY smell I can sniff. Its like you are spraying pure water.
Its really natural and benign cause its labeled for INSIDE a restuart,,and has to be tame for THAT to happen!!
-------------------- just don Posts: 4548 | From Middle of midwest | Registered: May 2001
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tailz
Unregistered
posted
Wow. I know I got some of what I have from fleas. We'd rented a townhouse back in 1989 (or I should say my ex picked it out), and for one full YEAR I woke up with a trail of flea bites across my stomach and on my legs and ankles. One morning I even picked a flea off my upper lip that was feeding! A few years later I had to have a white bump removed from the bow of my lip.
I ended up on antidepressants/anti-anxiety meds within a couple of years after living there, and when I did a parasite cleanse a couple of years ago, I think I passed tapeworms.
No amount of spraying by me or the exterminator - or dipping my cat - ever got rid of them. In fact, our cat was an indoor cat and our landlord still tried to blame the immediate infestation on us.
We got even though - when we were getting ready to move, we made sure to mention the mating (winged) termites on our kitchen counters to the home inspector.
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treepatrol
Honored Contributor (10K+ posts)
Member # 4117
Ridding a home of fleas can be a frustrating and costly endeavor. Unlike some pests encountered around the home, fleas cause discomfort and irritation to both pets and people. Fleas account for more than half of all dermatological conditions requiring veterinary assistance, and even a single flea bite to a hypersensitive animal or person may cause intense itching and irritation.
For successful flea control, the home, pet and oftentimes, the yard must be treated. Yet the manner in which these treatments are performed can greatly influence the results. The following information will help frustrated pet owners effectively rid their homes and pets of fleas.
Essential Facts About Fleas Adult fleas (the biting stage seen by pet owners) spend most of their time on the animal, not in the carpet. This is why treatment of the pet in conjunction with the pet's environment is an essential step in ridding a home of fleas. Adult fleas lay all of their eggs (up to 50 per day) on the pet. However, the eggs soon fall off the animal into carpeting, beneath the cushions of furniture, and wherever else the pet rests, sleeps or spends most of its time. This is where homeowners should focus control measures. After hatching, flea eggs develop into tiny, worm-like larvae. Larvae remain hidden deep in carpet fibers, beneath furniture cushions and in other protected areas. The larvae feed mainly on adult flea feces (dried blood) which accumulates, along with the eggs, in pet resting and activity areas. Before becoming adult fleas, the larvae transform into pupae within a silk-like cocoon. Pupae remain inside the cocoon for 2 to 4 weeks, sometimes longer. The cocoon is resistant to insecticides and this is why some adult fleas are seen for an extended period, even after the home and pet are treated.
Treatment of Premises If you neglect to treat the pet's environment (the premises), you will miss more than 90% of the developing flea population -- the eggs, larvae and pupae. If the pet spends time indoors, the interior of the home should also be treated. Before treatment, the pet owner should:
Remove all toys, clothing, and stored items from floors, under beds, and in closets. This step is essential so that all areas will be accessible for treatment. Remove pet food and water dishes, cover fish tanks, and disconnect their aerators. Wash, dry-clean or destroy all pet bedding. Vacuum! -- vacuuming removes many of the eggs, larvae and pupae developing within the home. Vacuuming also stimulates pre-adult fleas to emerge sooner from their insecticide-resistant cocoons, thus hastening their contact with insecticide residues in the carpet. By raising the nap of the carpet, vacuuming improves the insecticide's penetration down to the base of the carpet fibers where the developing fleas live. Vacuum thoroughly, especially in areas where pets rest or sleep. Don't forget to vacuum along edges of rooms and beneath furniture, cushions, beds, and throw rugs. After vacuuming, seal the vacuum bag in a garbage bag and discard it in an outdoor trash container.
Insecticide Application - Once fleas become established in a home, insecticides are almost always needed to control them. Always read and follow label directions on the insecticide container. Other than the person performing the application, people and pets should be out of the house during treatment. People and pets should also remain off treated surfaces until the spray has dried. This may take several hours, depending on carpet type, ventilation and method of application. Opening windows and running the fan or air conditioner after treatment will enhance drying and minimize odor.
Many different products are available for home treatment. The most effective formulations contain both an adulticide (e.g., permethrin) effective against the biting adult stage, and an insect growth regulator (methoprene or pyriproxyfen), necessary to provide long-term suppression of the eggs, larvae and pupae. Pet owners will need to carefully read the ``active ingredients'' panel on the product label to determine if these ingredients are present. Examples include Raid Flea Killer Plus(R), Siphotrol Plus(R), , Bio Flea Halt(TM), and Fleatrol(R). Most homeowners will find aerosol formulations easier to apply than liquids. Moreover, aerosol products which can be dispensed by hand -- and thus directed under and behind beds, furniture, etc. -- tend to be more effective than ``foggers'' or ``bug bombs'' which are indiscriminately set off in the center of a room. It is essential that the application be thorough and include all likely areas of flea development. Carpets, throw rugs, under and behind beds and furniture, and beneath cushions on which pets sleep should all be treated. Pay particular attention to areas where pets spend time or sleep, as these will be the areas where most flea eggs, larvae and pupae will be concentrated. For example, if the family cat sleeps within a closet, or hides under the bed, these areas must be treated or the problem will continue. Hardwood and tile floors generally do not require treatment, but should be thoroughly vacuumed.
Expect to see some fleas for 2 weeks or longer following treatment. Provided all infested areas were treated initially, these "survivors" are probably newly emerged adults which have not yet succumbed to the insecticide. Instead of retreating the premises immediately, continue to vacuum. As noted earlier, vacuuming stimulates the insecticide-resistant pupae to hatch, bringing the newly emerged adults into contact with the insecticide sooner. Flea traps, such as those utilizing a light and glue board to attract and capture adult fleas, can be helpful but will not eliminate a flea infestation unless used in combination with other methods. If adult fleas continue to be seen beyond 2-4 weeks, retreatment of the premises (and pet) may be necessary.
Treatment of Pet It is important that the pet be treated in conjunction with the premises, preferably on the same day. Adult fleas spend virtually their entire life on the animal -- not in the carpet. Untreated pets will continue to be bothered by fleas. They may also transport fleas in from outdoors, eventually overcoming the effectiveness of the insecticide applied inside the home.
Pets can be treated either by a veterinarian or the pet owner. A variety of on-animal formulations are available that may be prescribed by veterinarians. Many provide only short-term relief against biting adults (a few hours to a few weeks); however, two new veterinarian-supplied products, Advantage and Frontline, control adult fleas on pets for 1 and 3 months, respectively. Some products also contain an insect growth regulator (IGR) to prevent eggs from hatching as they are laid on the animal (e.g., Raid Flea Killer Plus, Ovitrol Plus(R), Bio Spot(TM)). Convenient, long-term prevention of egg hatch can be accomplished either with the Ovitrol(R) Flea Egg Collar, or Program(R), administered orally to pets as a tablet. (See ENTFACT 628 - A Smarter Approach To Flea Control). Both of these products are available through veterinarians.
Pet owners should always read the product label. Certain products can be used only on dogs, and some list specific treatment procedures for puppies and kittens. Do not treat pets with the same products used to treat carpeting or the yard. As previously mentioned, it is important that pets be kept off treated carpets and surfaces until the spray has completely dried.
To re-cap, "de-fleaing" the pet is an essential step in ridding a home of fleas. However, pet owners must also treat the pet's environment, the home. Having your pet dipped will not, in itself, eliminate fleas in an infested home.
Treatment of Yard Most flea problems in Kentucky can be eliminated by treating the pet and the interior of the home. In cases where pets spend most of their time outdoors, it may also be necessary to treat the yard. One way to determine if the yard is infested is to walk around the property wearing white athletic socks, pulled to the knee. If fleas are present, they will be seen against the white background of the socks.
Outdoor flea treatment should focus on areas where pets rest, sleep, and run, such as doghouse and kennel areas, under decks, along fences and next to the foundation. It is seldom necessary to treat the entire yard or open areas exposed to full sun. Insecticide formulations containing chlorpyrifos (Dursban) or permethrin are somewhat effective for outdoor flea treatment. These can be applied with a hose-end or pump-up sprayer. Long term suppression of fleas infesting kennels or outdoor areas can be enhanced with formulations containing an IGR such as methoprene or pyriproxyfen.
Fleas can be successfully controlled by diligently following the steps outlined above. Homeowners who lack the time to control fleas themselves or who are uncomfortable applying pesticides may wish to enlist the services of a professional pest control firm.
NOTE: Where trade names are used, no endorsement is intended, nor criticism implied of similar products not named.
Issued: 9/92 Revised: 11/97
CAUTION! Pesticide recommendations in this publication are registered for use in Kentucky, USA ONLY! The use of some products may not be legal in your state or country. Please check with your local county agent or regulatory official before using any pesticide mentioned in this publication.
Of course, ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTIONS FOR SAFE USE OF ANY PESTICIDE!
-------------------- Do unto others as you would have them do unto you. Remember Iam not a Doctor Just someone struggling like you with Tick Borne Diseases.
Ridding a home of fleas can be a frustrating and costly endeavor. Unlike some pests encountered around the home, fleas cause discomfort and irritation to both pets and people. Fleas account for more than half of all dermatological conditions requiring veterinary assistance, and even a single flea bite to a hypersensitive animal or person may cause intense itching and irritation.
For successful flea control, the home, pet and oftentimes, the yard must be treated. Yet the manner in which these treatments are performed can greatly influence the results. The following information will help frustrated pet owners effectively rid their homes and pets of fleas.
Essential Facts About Fleas Adult fleas (the biting stage seen by pet owners) spend most of their time on the animal, not in the carpet. This is why treatment of the pet in conjunction with the pet's environment is an essential step in ridding a home of fleas. Adult fleas lay all of their eggs (up to 50 per day) on the pet. However, the eggs soon fall off the animal into carpeting, beneath the cushions of furniture, and wherever else the pet rests, sleeps or spends most of its time. This is where homeowners should focus control measures. After hatching, flea eggs develop into tiny, worm-like larvae. Larvae remain hidden deep in carpet fibers, beneath furniture cushions and in other protected areas. The larvae feed mainly on adult flea feces (dried blood) which accumulates, along with the eggs, in pet resting and activity areas. Before becoming adult fleas, the larvae transform into pupae within a silk-like cocoon. Pupae remain inside the cocoon for 2 to 4 weeks, sometimes longer. The cocoon is resistant to insecticides and this is why some adult fleas are seen for an extended period, even after the home and pet are treated.
Treatment of Premises If you neglect to treat the pet's environment (the premises), you will miss more than 90% of the developing flea population -- the eggs, larvae and pupae. If the pet spends time indoors, the interior of the home should also be treated. Before treatment, the pet owner should:
Remove all toys, clothing, and stored items from floors, under beds, and in closets. This step is essential so that all areas will be accessible for treatment. Remove pet food and water dishes, cover fish tanks, and disconnect their aerators. Wash, dry-clean or destroy all pet bedding. Vacuum! -- vacuuming removes many of the eggs, larvae and pupae developing within the home. Vacuuming also stimulates pre-adult fleas to emerge sooner from their insecticide-resistant cocoons, thus hastening their contact with insecticide residues in the carpet. By raising the nap of the carpet, vacuuming improves the insecticide's penetration down to the base of the carpet fibers where the developing fleas live. Vacuum thoroughly, especially in areas where pets rest or sleep. Don't forget to vacuum along edges of rooms and beneath furniture, cushions, beds, and throw rugs. After vacuuming, seal the vacuum bag in a garbage bag and discard it in an outdoor trash container.
Insecticide Application - Once fleas become established in a home, insecticides are almost always needed to control them. Always read and follow label directions on the insecticide container. Other than the person performing the application, people and pets should be out of the house during treatment. People and pets should also remain off treated surfaces until the spray has dried. This may take several hours, depending on carpet type, ventilation and method of application. Opening windows and running the fan or air conditioner after treatment will enhance drying and minimize odor.
Many different products are available for home treatment. The most effective formulations contain both an adulticide (e.g., permethrin) effective against the biting adult stage, and an insect growth regulator (methoprene or pyriproxyfen), necessary to provide long-term suppression of the eggs, larvae and pupae. Pet owners will need to carefully read the ``active ingredients'' panel on the product label to determine if these ingredients are present. Examples include Raid Flea Killer Plus(R), Siphotrol Plus(R), , Bio Flea Halt(TM), and Fleatrol(R). Most homeowners will find aerosol formulations easier to apply than liquids. Moreover, aerosol products which can be dispensed by hand -- and thus directed under and behind beds, furniture, etc. -- tend to be more effective than ``foggers'' or ``bug bombs'' which are indiscriminately set off in the center of a room. It is essential that the application be thorough and include all likely areas of flea development. Carpets, throw rugs, under and behind beds and furniture, and beneath cushions on which pets sleep should all be treated. Pay particular attention to areas where pets spend time or sleep, as these will be the areas where most flea eggs, larvae and pupae will be concentrated. For example, if the family cat sleeps within a closet, or hides under the bed, these areas must be treated or the problem will continue. Hardwood and tile floors generally do not require treatment, but should be thoroughly vacuumed.
Expect to see some fleas for 2 weeks or longer following treatment. Provided all infested areas were treated initially, these "survivors" are probably newly emerged adults which have not yet succumbed to the insecticide. Instead of retreating the premises immediately, continue to vacuum. As noted earlier, vacuuming stimulates the insecticide-resistant pupae to hatch, bringing the newly emerged adults into contact with the insecticide sooner. Flea traps, such as those utilizing a light and glue board to attract and capture adult fleas, can be helpful but will not eliminate a flea infestation unless used in combination with other methods. If adult fleas continue to be seen beyond 2-4 weeks, retreatment of the premises (and pet) may be necessary.
Treatment of Pet It is important that the pet be treated in conjunction with the premises, preferably on the same day. Adult fleas spend virtually their entire life on the animal -- not in the carpet. Untreated pets will continue to be bothered by fleas. They may also transport fleas in from outdoors, eventually overcoming the effectiveness of the insecticide applied inside the home.
Pets can be treated either by a veterinarian or the pet owner. A variety of on-animal formulations are available that may be prescribed by veterinarians. Many provide only short-term relief against biting adults (a few hours to a few weeks); however, two new veterinarian-supplied products, Advantage and Frontline, control adult fleas on pets for 1 and 3 months, respectively. Some products also contain an insect growth regulator (IGR) to prevent eggs from hatching as they are laid on the animal (e.g., Raid Flea Killer Plus, Ovitrol Plus(R), Bio Spot(TM)). Convenient, long-term prevention of egg hatch can be accomplished either with the Ovitrol(R) Flea Egg Collar, or Program(R), administered orally to pets as a tablet. (See ENTFACT 628 - A Smarter Approach To Flea Control). Both of these products are available through veterinarians.
Pet owners should always read the product label. Certain products can be used only on dogs, and some list specific treatment procedures for puppies and kittens. Do not treat pets with the same products used to treat carpeting or the yard. As previously mentioned, it is important that pets be kept off treated carpets and surfaces until the spray has completely dried.
To re-cap, "de-fleaing" the pet is an essential step in ridding a home of fleas. However, pet owners must also treat the pet's environment, the home. Having your pet dipped will not, in itself, eliminate fleas in an infested home.
Treatment of Yard Most flea problems in Kentucky can be eliminated by treating the pet and the interior of the home. In cases where pets spend most of their time outdoors, it may also be necessary to treat the yard. One way to determine if the yard is infested is to walk around the property wearing white athletic socks, pulled to the knee. If fleas are present, they will be seen against the white background of the socks.
Outdoor flea treatment should focus on areas where pets rest, sleep, and run, such as doghouse and kennel areas, under decks, along fences and next to the foundation. It is seldom necessary to treat the entire yard or open areas exposed to full sun. Insecticide formulations containing chlorpyrifos (Dursban) or permethrin are somewhat effective for outdoor flea treatment. These can be applied with a hose-end or pump-up sprayer. Long term suppression of fleas infesting kennels or outdoor areas can be enhanced with formulations containing an IGR such as methoprene or pyriproxyfen.
Fleas can be successfully controlled by diligently following the steps outlined above. Homeowners who lack the time to control fleas themselves or who are uncomfortable applying pesticides may wish to enlist the services of a professional pest control firm.
NOTE: Where trade names are used, no endorsement is intended, nor criticism implied of similar products not named.
Issued: 9/92 Revised: 11/97
CAUTION! Pesticide recommendations in this publication are registered for use in Kentucky, USA ONLY! The use of some products may not be legal in your state or country. Please check with your local county agent or regulatory official before using any pesticide mentioned in this publication.
Of course, ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTIONS FOR SAFE USE OF ANY PESTICIDE!
-------------------- Do unto others as you would have them do unto you. Remember Iam not a Doctor Just someone struggling like you with Tick Borne Diseases.
treepatrol
Honored Contributor (10K+ posts)
Member # 4117
posted
doublposty removed
-------------------- Do unto others as you would have them do unto you. Remember Iam not a Doctor Just someone struggling like you with Tick Borne Diseases.
merrygirl
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 12041
posted
True, How are you doing today??? Hope your ok.
Melissa
Posts: 3905 | From USA | Registered: May 2007
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LisaS
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 10581
posted
Frontline Frontline Frontline, its the only thing that works for my dogs and cats! And it works for a couple months. You just put it o there necks and in the next couple days all the fleas and ticks die.
Just Julie
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 1119
posted
FRONTLINE DOES NOT WORK FOR A "COUPLE OF MONTHS"!!!
typed that in caps, because I have been using Frontline (Plus) for years now, and believe me, it does NOT work for months. I think the outside time limit is 4 WEEKS. Yes, that is weeks!!!
I would use Frontline PLUS, if I were treating a cat. I have 2 cats, outside only, and believe me, Frontline PLUS does the job. It works for about 4 weeks exactly.
Frontline PLUS kills not only the fleas (and ticks!) but the eggs that will hatch out as well. It think it says on the package that the active ingredient in Frontline Plus is the only thing that will kill flea eggs.
Plain Frontline does kill fleas and ticks, but not the eggs. Frontline Plus is more expensive, but well worth it. Especially in eradicating the flea population total.
I agree with whoever said that grocery store topical stuff does not work. I have had more of my neighbors tell me that exact same thing.
Why waste time and effort in spending money on products that do not do the job? And if you are hoping to convert the owners into using a product that will actually work and do the job, then start off by using what is proven to work, and that is Frontline. Frontline PLUS!
I sound like a frickin' advertisement, but hey, I"m all into fixing stuff, not prolonging the agony. And flea infestations are agony, I've been there. Not worth it.
Poor kitty, and poor YOU!!! Help that poor cat, if you can, and tell the owners that after much input, and research, you found that Frontline PLus will do the job, help relieve the poor kitty's agony, and stop the problem for good.
I hope you give them any bills from any medical care you may have to seek out from getting flea attacked. Nasty stuff, those flea bites.
-------------------- Julie Posts: 1027 | From Northern CA | Registered: May 2001
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trueblue
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 7348
posted
Thanks, Merry, Don, Tailz, Tree, Clarissa, Lisa and Julie!
I had no internet access most of yesterday, pfffft...
I went next door, with Tea Tree Oil and lotion on my legs, btw, it does nothing to repel fleas. I found the Natural stuff (mostly lemongrass, clove, eucaliptus(sp?), etc... smells sort of nice to me.
So, I did 20 mule team Borax my rug yesterday, showered put on flea free clothes went to PT and came home for about 10 minutes and went to a friend's. I got home about 11pm and was getting bitten again. I caught about 9 more fleas.
This morning I vacuumed until I thought I would drop and then jumped in the pool to wash off the ickies and went to PetSmart and bought something with IGR and an adult flea killer in it. I sprayed in here and left exhausted and freaked out for a few hours.
I haven't seen any fleas in here, tonight. So... so far, so good. I called the neighbor and told them what the situation was like. They refuse to let an exterminator in because last time the cat got hepatitis from whatever was sprayed in the house. It was suggested I go and sprinkle some Borax in her house. I said I won't go in and another friend might brave it to feed the animals and change the litter. I can't do it.
I am head to toe flea bites, I have bites in places I couldn't imagine.
I have no LLMD.
-------------------- more light, more love more truth and more innovation Posts: 3783 | From somewhere other than here | Registered: May 2005
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Just Julie
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 1119
posted
True, I am so sorry. I have dealt with flea infestations (outside) and it is utter hell.
One tip I forgot, and it's a big one, is when you vacuum your house (not the one your housesitting) after you're done vacuuming, take your vacuum cleaner bag (I'm assuming you have a disposable one, not a big, upright cloth one) and put it in a gallon size ziplock bag. Zip it up tight!
I say this because I have found that this is the best way to contain any live fleas you vacuum up. Also, if you vacuum up pregnant fleas (ewww what a thought)and don't put the bag in ziplock bag when you're done, if the prego flea gives birth (3,000 babies I've heard)you will have an infestation from HELL!!!
Also, if you vacuum up just regular non-pregant fleas, you'll have those contained in your ziplock too. I have heard stories of fleas jumping out of the vacuum (probably up the vacuum pipe/hose thingie) and then you never get rid of them.
I have found LIVE fleas in my ziplock bag along with my vacuum cleaner bag. I HATE FLEAS! Vacuuming them up does not kill them, little buggers.
When you have a full vacuum cleaner bag, still put it in the ziplock before you throw it out. You do not want to just transplant the fleas from the inside to the outside.
If you do get a mess of them outside for some reason, I can attest to the Tempo pesticide that Just Don recommends. I have had insane flea infestations in my screen porch room right off my kitchen (due to deck not being kept free of critters living under there) for the past 5 summers. I finally bought myself some Tempo (online, you cannot buy it in California) and it worked like a charm! Sevin did NOT work outside for me, I tried, but it was useless.
Did I mention I HATE FLEAS?
-------------------- Julie Posts: 1027 | From Northern CA | Registered: May 2001
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trueblue
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 7348
posted
Thanks Julie! I'm not too fond of them myself. I'll have to get the stuff to spray outside, as well.
I did do the vacuum cleaner bag right, though. I tied it in a garbage bag and put it right out for pick-up.
I sure am itchy. Yuck!
-------------------- more light, more love more truth and more innovation Posts: 3783 | From somewhere other than here | Registered: May 2005
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Carol in PA
Frequent Contributor (5K+ posts)
Member # 5338
posted
Here is a low tech way to catch and kill fleas:
Fleas are attracted to a light, at night. Fleas will drown in a dish of water, if you add a little detergent.
(The detergent breaks the surface tension of the water, so that the fleas don't float around...they will sink like a rock.)
Set up a small desk lamp on the floor, over a dish of water. Point the light down at the dish. At night, turn on the lamp, and turn off all other lights.
The fleas will jump at the light, and fall down. Into the water. And drown. Yaayyy!
We keep a small bowl of water handy when the cats bring in fleas....when we catch them, we just drop them in.
Carol
Posts: 6947 | From Lancaster, PA | Registered: Feb 2004
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trueblue
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 7348
posted
Hi Carol and thanks,
I did that the other night but think my bowl was too deep. No one jumped in and drowned. (The ones I threw in sank nicely.) I'd try a shallower dish next time.
It seems I am in the clear. I've not seen any in 24 hours. *keeps fingers crossed*
(I'll be without internet access from tomorrow mid-morning until probably Thursday or Friday.)
-------------------- more light, more love more truth and more innovation Posts: 3783 | From somewhere other than here | Registered: May 2005
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posted
True...NO more cat/dog sitting for you!! You're done. These people will be lucky ducks if you don't sue them!
Yuck, yuck, yuck!!
I'm PRAYING you get nothing more than itchiness from this episode!
-------------------- --Lymetutu-- Opinions, not medical advice! Posts: 96222 | From Texas | Registered: Feb 2001
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trueblue
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 7348
posted
Thanks, Tootsie!
Nah, I think I'm retired from pet-sitting. I don't want to do this again, any of it.
I think I got rid of them, though.
-------------------- more light, more love more truth and more innovation Posts: 3783 | From somewhere other than here | Registered: May 2005
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Melanie Reber
Frequent Contributor (5K+ posts)
Member # 3707
posted
Hiya Bluebird,
So sorry about the fleas. They are nasty little critters aren't they?
Lets hope that they haven't provided you with any additional bugs. But...just in case, be certain to keep track of any new and unusual symptoms.
Much love, Melanie
PS...Happy anniversary! Posts: 7052 | From Colorado | Registered: Mar 2003
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trueblue
Frequent Contributor (1K+ posts)
Member # 7348
posted
Hi Melanie,
Thanks, I'll pay attention but refuse to get anything more; so I'm not.
I think I need to stop thinking (or talking) about it. The panic has worn off but I keep wanting to cry.
PS. back at ya!
-------------------- more light, more love more truth and more innovation Posts: 3783 | From somewhere other than here | Registered: May 2005
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